Piazzale Michaelangelo and Giardino delle Rose

old city wall of florence

Going into this trip, I had a mental list of the things I wanted to make sure we fit into our time in Florence.  The central market and the main tourist sites were on the list.  We've covered those.  Also on my list was a visit to Piazzale Michaelangelo. The views of the city are remarkable from this square perched up high outside of the old city wall.  Late one afternoon, we made the hike up.

 Although, I have been up to this location a handful of times before, I had never approached it from the direction we did this time.  Coming at it from a new way led to the discovery of a beautiful and peaceful rose garden with an almost as spectacular view of the city as the piazza itself has. We spent a little time admiring the flowers and landscaping even though the roses were past their prime.

olive tree

Florence - Il Mercato Centrale

I can't believe we have made it this far into my Italy posts and I have yet to talk about food!  Well, let me set about correcting that oversight pronto.  This post is full to the brim with photos from Florence's central market.  I have many memories of frequenting this grubby, stinky market when I was a student in Florence 15 years ago as it is located near my former school.  The first floor was full of fish and meat vendors and it smelled like stinky fish.  The second floor smelled better since that is where the fruit and vegetable vendors were, but it wasn't fancy up there either.  Fast forward 15 years to this past summer and the central market reopened after renovations.  It is very gourmet now, complete with prepared foods, a cooking school and the fish vendors sequestered off in one stinky corner!  Thankfully, it hasn't change TOO much.  I still saw tourists getting chastised for touching the produce by cranky vendors who don't speak English.

We were fortunate to be there during porcini mushroom season.  They were very affordable at less than $10 a pound. I learned that the cap and stem are edible and that many prefer the flavor of the stem to the cap as it is a bit sweeter.

dried, salted capers

We came away with some things to eat right away and some things to last a while.  Here is a photo of my haul.  Please note the immense restraint I demonstrated in the face of all of that wonderful food.  Maybe even too much restraint, since I wish I could go back and buy some of the black truffle items that I passed up thinking there would be other opportunities during the trip.  There weren't!

We ate very well on our trip.  I will tell you more about our meals throughout my posts.

Florence - Graffiti

As with most cities, graffiti and posters without permits are illegal. And, as with most cities, that doesn't stop the artists/vandals.  Here are a few pieces I enjoyed.

Pigeons Make Funny Hats

Pigeons on the roof of a store on the Ponte Vecchio

There are a lot of pigeons in Italy.  A lot.  One day when we were walking around, I noticed an inordinate number of them were choosing to perch on the heads of sculptures for just a minute or two while I was nearby.  I assumed they were posing for my camera, so I happily obliged them by taking their picture.

This one was the first one that I saw.  It made me chuckle, because that bird just looks like it owns that spot.  It is all like, "What are you looking at?  I totally belong all up in this guy's hair."

Then, this one happened a few minutes later. I imagine the lady is thinking, "Oh no you don't, bird.  I will cut you. Can't you see I am busy!"

And then, these...these still make me laugh.  The expressions on the faces of the sculptures look so freaked out by the bird perched on their head.  I will share with you what I know them to be saying, it is your job to read it in a whiny, nasal voice.

"You guys!  Is that a bird I feel on my head?  Ewwww!"

"Oh god! Oh god!  Get it off of me!  I can feel it sitting there!
Oh no!  Dude! You have one on your head, too!
Ahhh, there is one on my knee now!"

"Oh, not again!  I hate pigeons!  It is gonna poop in my eye, I just know it!"

Aren't you glad I saved these for their very own post? Ha!